Slow boats Mekong Laos
Slow boat on the Mekong Laos
Laos is the only land locked country in Southeast Asia. It is surrounded by, in the north, Myanmar and China, Vietnam to the east, Cambodia to the southeast and Thailand to the West. Laos or the People’s Democratic Republic of Laos is a one-party state with a turbulent history. From the 14th to the 19th century, it was an important trading hub. In 1893 it fell under French rule as part of French Indochina, finally achieving independence in 1953. In 1975, after a long civil war between the communist party “Pathet Lao”, supported by North Vietnam and the Soviet Union and the “Royal Lao Armed forces” supported by the USA it became “The Lao Democratic Peoples Republic” a one-party socialist state aligned with the Soviet Union. Nowadays it has transformed into a one-party market economy state loosely aligned with China.
Shuttle bus over the friendship bridge from Thailand border to Laos border.
The Mekong from the friendship bridge, no mans land between Thailand and Laos.
Laos is a country of landscapes. From rich jungle, emerald green rice fields, to tea and coffee plantations, interspersed with towering mountains sharply silhouetting the blue sky. It is still a bit off the established tourist trail, with an, as yet, underdeveloped tourist infrastructure. Being favoured by the backpacker and adventure seeking community. But if you make the effort to visit it you will be amply rewarded. It is home to the most friendly and welcoming people in Southeast Asia. It is also considered to be the most underdeveloped and poorest country in Southeast Asia. That maybe so, but it has to be the richest in pure, largely untouched, raw nature and the friendliness of its people.
Mountains and lush green jungle, the banks of the Mekong Laos.
The Mekong River fascinates me, as was evident in my last post and photo album “North East Thailand, Isaan 14-2-25 to 28-2-25”. So, what better way to enter Laos than by the “slow boat” This is a boat running from Huay Xai, on the border with Thailand, to Luang Prabang in the north, the old capital, under French occupation, of Laos. This is like a taxi carrying locals and goods up or down the river. Rivers in Laos were/are used extensively for transport. Nowadays tracks and roads have been built. The boats are longboats, with the owner family living in accommodation on the back of the boat. The boat running up to Luang Prabang was dubbed the slow boat by the backpackers, decades ago. These are rickey old boats packing up to 100 to 150 passengers and cargo into them. The seating, if you could call it that, are old minibus seats salvaged from the scrap yards. The number of boats departing per day is strictly controlled. The boat takes two days to make the trip. The first day it stops in Pak Beng, where everyone piles off and finds a hotel. The second day you change to another boat to take you the rest of the way. This is the cheapest option and boat. Then there are more expensive boats offering more comfort with less people. I got lucky and got a last-minute offer on one of these boats. I took it.
Huay Xai, Laos, on the border with Thailand
The more luxurious type slow boat
I took a rickety old local bus from Chiang Rai, Thailand, to the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge number 4, close to Chiang Khong. This bus is really laid back, you buy the ticket on board. It takes passengers, parcels, animals and mail. It stops regularly to either drop something or some one off and to pick up more passengers. I took the first bus, leaving at 7.30am. The bus goes to Chiang Khong, but if you want to go to the Friendship Bridge and immigration then it makes a detour. The ticket costs a bit more. Me and another passenger were going to the bridge. At the turn off for the bridge the conductor asked me if I wouldn’t mind taking a Tuk Tuk to the bridge and that they would pay for it. He said that they didn’t feel like driving down to it. So, me and another girl got off at the junction where there where two Tuk Tuks waiting. They transferred our baggage to the Tuk Tuk, paid the driver and we were off. I think that this happens regularly. It is a 10km drive from the junction to the bridge. First was the Thai immigration. I was stamped out of Thailand and was directed to go to the shuttle bus that was waiting outside. This is a bus that pendles between the Thai and the Laos immigration, situated at both ends of the bridge and about 6 kms apart. The Laos border control was more bureaucratic. First was filling two forms in, then handing the forms and my passport over to the official. Then a wait of a couple of minutes for your name to be called. Then over to another locket where I had to pay 40 USD whereupon I got my passport back with a nice 1-month visa in it. I was good to go. I knew that I could pay in Thai Bhat, so I didn’t change any money or use the border ATM. Then a wait to see if more people would arrive so that we could share a Songthaew. These are shared taxis adapted from a pickup truck or flatbed truck, they have benches running down the sides and are the local transport in Southeast Asia. It was a 12 km journey to Huay Xai. This was a typical little rural border town on the banks of the Mekong. Its main trade was the backpackers taking the slow boat. The main street was lined with guesthouses, hotels and restaurants, all in different guises and price range. I had already prebooked a hotel as I had to give the name to the boat company as they were going to pick me up in the morning and bring me to the boat. Once checked in I got some Lao Kip, the local currency and a Laos sim card, I was good to go. Like a lot of people, I didn’t know what to expect from Laos, but my first impressions were really good.
The local bus to Chang Kong, via the friendship bridge.
One incredible journey on the local bus, really friendly driver, conductor and passengers.
Huay Xai, Laos, on the border with Thailand
Local transport taking aback packers to the slow boat
The next morning, I was picked up by a minibus and brought to the harbour, there was two other people in the van, a German mother and her son. The local slow boats had all departed when we arrived and there were just a few boats moored up. We were told to board one of them, it looked kinda nice. I walked onboard with my tired old beaten-up rucksack with my bike jacket sticking out of it. It was then that I noticed the other passengers, they were all nicely dressed, smelling of nice perfume, after shave and deodorant. I had to take my shoes off at the entrance and that involved me sitting down as they are heavy duty hiking boots that come up over the ankle. This was in the bow of the boat where there was a lounge area with nice long lounge beds. I overheard one of the French passengers, he was with a group of French, remarking that I was obviously on the wrong boat. I didn’t let on that I spoke French and ignored him. I did look kind of out of place though. The main cabin of the boat had tables on both sides, each one shared by 4 people. Each person had their place allocated. I was sharing a table with a really nice Canadian couple, with on the other side a nice English couple. It was gonna be a good journey. At the back was a buffet area with coffee, tea, fruit and snacks that were available all day. Lunch was included in the price, as was some excursions along the way.
My transport for the next two days
My slow boat.
The first stop was just clear of the harbour and a few kms out of town. This was an official one, the captain had to go up to a control post that was keeping note of the departing boats. He had to get his papers stamped and his permit to leave. He registers his destination and the number of passengers. The amount of large boat traffic on the river is regulated. Then it was time to relax and enjoy two days of floating down the Mekong. The first day, in the morning, we stopped at a small rural village. This was really interesting. It was so strange to see the kids running around outside playing in the river, laughing, enjoying themselves in the open air. Not a mobile telephone or X-box in sight. The locals live from the land and the river. The villagers live a communal life, working and socializing together, sharing what they have with each other. Trading rice and fish for goods. Compare that to life in Europe. The pace of life on the river is really slow. Back onboard we were treated to a super buffet lunch. The food was really good and plentiful, and you could eat as much as you wanted.
Tribal village on the Mekong.
Tribal village on the banks of the Mekong.
Village life.
The picture of contentment,a life lived and enjoyed.
We arrived early afternoon to Pak Beng. This is a small little rural town. It’s main source of income is the slow boats and trade from traffic on the rod to Luang Prabang. All the slow boats stop here for the night. We could leave our luggage onboard and just take an overnight bag to the hotel. This is opposed to the local slow boats. They all stop here and return to Huay Xai, and other boats go to Luang Prabang.
Cruising down the Mekong.
Cruising down the Mekong.
Pak Beng.
Main street Pak Beng.
I had a really nice old colonial wooden hotel on the banks of the Mekong. Pak Beng is really a small town with everything gathered on the main street. I found a nice restaurant and sampled some really good Laos cuisine. That evening back at the hotel there was a lot of noise from a party next door. Singing and chanting. Sleep was going to be impossible. So decided to do the next best thing and was to go join them. It was a large garden and a lot of people were sitting around in a circle playing music, singing and chanting. One nicely dressed young lady was sitting central, so I assumed it to be a wedding. They were drinking what they call happy water. This is a local distilled, really strong spirit. After a while I asked someone via google translate if this was a wedding. They looked at me in surprise and answered via google…. “No, It is a funeral” and pointed to a little, makeshift, shrine housing the remains of the person. That explained the chanting that I had heard earlier from the monks. Ohhh boy. They were celebrating the life and passing of a mother, family and friend. We do much the same, particularly, in rural Ireland, we call it a “wake”, it is honouring life and death. The people were sitting in a circle, everyone took turns singing a story about the deceased and praising her. It is a way of coping with grief. After a couple of hours this they were showing no signs of stopping so I returned to my hotel, put my earplugs in and went to sleep. Happy in the knowledge that I had shared in something really special. Next morning was an early start. So, after a breakfast on the banks of the Mekong I was picked up and brought to the boat. I was one of the first, the rest came, a bit bleary eyed, later. The whole village had been at the wake, and nobody seemed to have gotten a good nights sleep, except me. I always carry earplugs, you never know where you end up at night.
Pak Beng.
A Wake (funeral) in Pak Beng. Honouring and celebrating the life and passing away of a loved one.
Drinking to the soul of a parted mother, wishing her well on her journey to the next life.
Drinking, singing and commemorating the life of a loved one.
Pak Beng Laos.
We had two stops planned for today. The first one was at another rural village, this one specializing in the brewing of local whisky or happy water. There was a demonstration on the brewing process, a tasting session and of course the opportunity to buy some. There were also the local women weaving traditional coloured clothes, also for sale. It felt really commercial, as it was on the tourist trail.
The Mekong.
The Mekong.
The Mekong, whisky making village.
We passed the major construction site of a new dam. This is, in a way, a controversial construction. It will be the third hydro power dam in Laos. It’s location is a source of concern as it is really close to Luang Prabang an UNESCO listed town. It will also seriously affect the movement of the long boats.
The Mekong.
The Mekong.
Construction of new dam for hydro power plant.
The next was the Pak Ou Caves. These caves are famous as a Buddhist spiritual place and as such are really important to the local people. The caves house an estimated 6,000 statues. 4,000 in the lower cave, Tham Ting, and 2,000 in the upper, Tham Theung, cave. They are placed there by worshipers making merit. The caves are situated up in a shear cliff wall and can only be reached by a series of stone steps. The upper cave is a bit of a climb but worth it. The views over the Mekong are spectacular from here. It was a short hop downstream from here to Luang Prabang. At the harbour we were met by a convoy of mini vans and an army of people to carry our luggage from the boat. We were then taken to our various hotels in the city.
The Pak Ou Caves.
The Pak Ou Caves.
The Pak Ou Caves.
The Pak Ou Caves.
Luang Prabang, a designated, UNESCO, world heritage site, is the old capital of Laos, when it was occupied by the French. Noticeable by the abundant French architectures style structures dotting the city. This is also one of the things that make Luang Prabang so famous, the fusion of Asian, Lao and Western architecture. It all seems to flow into each other, add over 30 Buddhist temples and it creates something unique. It was also, historically, known as Xieng Thong. It is a laid-back town in the mountains of Northern Laos. Luang Prabang means “Royal Buddha Image” referring to the Phra Bang, a statue that symbolizes Lao sovereignty.
The Mekong.
The Mekong.
Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang.
Luang Prabang.
One of the many sights is the “Phousi Hill”. This is a stiff walk up many flights of steps, 328 or 355, depending on which stairway you use, to be precise, to be rewarded with some really nice views and the Wat Chomsi Stupa. Halfway up the hill is the Wat Tham Phousi, a small Buddhist temple. This is best done early in the morning when it is a bit cooler. Dotted all the way up the hill are various little shrines housing Buddha images in various forms. That Chomsi is a golden pagoda topped by a seven-tiered parasol. It is best to allow a couple of hours for this hike and to go up one set of stairs and come down the other. It is really popular in the late afternoon as hordes of people troop up for the sunset. I just did a morning hike.
Phousi Hill.
Phousi Hill.
Phousi Hill.
Phousi Hill.
I then went to Haw Kham, the former presidential palace that is now a National Museum. Strictly no photos allowed inside. The palace was built in 1904, by the French, for the king and his family.
Haw Kham, the former presidential palace.
Haw Kham, the former presidential palace.
Next on my agenda of must see was Wat Xieng Thong “The Temple of the Golden Sun” This is one of the most important temples in Laos and was built in 1559 and finished one year later in 1560. It was used by Lao kings for their coronation ceremonies. It still remains a site for many Buddhist ceremonies today. It truly is an amazing complex. Set among old Banyan trees, palms, frangipani and flowering scarlet and purple bougainvillea. There are over 20 structures in the complex. One of the most spectacular is the Sim. This is a richly adorned central building with 9 cascading roofs, it’s exterior and interior richly adorned with gold stencils depicting many scenes from Lao history and the Buddhist lore. One of the most notable is the “Tree of Flame”, this is depicted on the back wall of the Sim. During the Festival of Lights it is hung with myriads of lanterns whose light make the mythical animals depicted in the painting come to life.
Wat Xieng Thong “The Temple of the Golden Sun”
Wat Xieng Thong “The Temple of the Golden Sun”
Wat Xieng Thong “The Temple of the Golden Sun”
Wat Xieng Thong “The Temple of the Golden Sun”
Every morning there is a morning market, open from 5am to 10am. This is where the locals do a lot of their shopping. People bring in their home-grown products and sell them. It still has the flavour and flair of an authentic Asian market. Which it is.
The morning market.
The morning market.
The morning market.
Sunset on the Mekong.
One of my main objectives in Luang Prabang was to try to find a long-term motorbike rental. I was not having much luck. But to be honest this town, Luang Prabang, was not doing it for me. I wasn’t really happy here. It is praised in all the guidebooks and on all the websites but for me it was just a tourist trap. Sure, there are some really monumental buildings and beautiful settings along the Mekong but in between and all around are tourist shops selling overpriced souvenirs and glitch. The restaurants, coffee shops and bakeries were also way overpriced. You had to really look hard to find nice local places and there are some. So, after 5 days I headed to Vientiane, and I wasn’t sorry to leave.
Spoiler alert. Next post we will be back on two wheels, with a smile from ear to ear and having a good time. In other words, back to normal.
I alo have a Facebook blog and photo albums. There are much more photos on there. Click on the link, here under, to view them.
Facebook Album North Laos 11 to 18 Marc 2025
Until next time, stay safe and have fun…..