Chiang Khan
North East Thailand or Isaan (Isan) is Thailand’s biggest region. It is situated on the Khorat Plateau and is bordered by the Mekong River, forming the border with Laos in the North and East, by Cambodia in the Southeast and the Sankamphaeng Mountain range south of Nakong Ratchasima. The Phetchabun mountains, in the West, separate it from central and northern Thailand. Isan covers an area of 168,000 km2 of which 10,000 km2 is forested.
My trusty steed for this journey was the rebel. A Honda 300cc Rebel. A lot of the time you cannot choose exactly what bike you want. It depends on availability and of course the price. The rebel, I had already hired on a previous trip, and it performed good. Plus, they gave me a deal on it because I was taking it for two and a half weeks.
My trusty steed, a Honda rebel 300
I had made up a route that I wanted to ride, I was riding along the Mekong River. I wanted to explore the towns along the river. This river also forms the border between Thailand and Laos. My first stop was in a small crossroads town called Uttaradit. The road was mostly dual carriageway with a really good two-lane road over the mountain passes. The distance was just 255km, but travel time was gonna be 3 hours and 50 minutes according to google maps. That means a lot more in reality because of petrol stops and stops to eat and drink. Plus, the temperatures are really high, making riding tiring. This was a sleepy little town, and I just stopped to eat and sleep there.
Lunch stop on the way to Uttaradit
The next day was another good run to my first destination Chiang Khan, in the province of Loei. This was a long hot ride through some amazing scenery. I arrived in Chiang Khan in the afternoon. I never prebook hotels because I never know if I will actually make it to my planned destination. I check some out online and make a list. Then I just turn up. This normally works out really well. This time it was a weekend and a holiday and everything was full. So, I stopped somewhere for a coffee and checked out google maps.
Stopped for a coffee and checked out Google Maps
I found a really nice one by chance when I started riding again. The sign was written in Thai, บ้านกำนัน รีสอร์ท, but in our letters it was called Baankumnun. It was a collection of little wooden chalets set in a beautiful tropical garden. I pulled in and as luck would have it, she had one room free. It was in a brand-new-purpose built building. It was also in walking distance to the town, a priority for me. After a day’s riding I need to walk.
Parked up at my guesthouse บ้านกำนัน รีสอร์ท, but in our letters it was called Baankumnun
Chiang Khan is a sleepy little town/village favoured by Thai tourists. The town is famous for it’s wooden houses, now converted into guest houses, restaurants and caffes. It used to be a major trading hub for Laos and Vietnamese traders. But trade stopped in 1975 with the coming in power of a communist government in Laos. They cut relationships with Thailand. During the day the town is a relaxed laid-back town but come sunset and it turns into a lively night market with street artists, buskers, street food stands and merchants selling their wares. The cuisine here is really remarkable. Influences from Laos and Vietnam mixed with typical Thai dishes. I don’t eat meat or fish so finding food can be sometimes challenging when I am off the beaten track, but I found one amazing dish. I watched a street food stand making this amazing concoction of food for two Thai people. When he saw my attention, he asked me if I wanted to also eat it. I explained that I don’t eat meat or fish, and he then proceeded to make this amazing concoction, for me, without meat. I took it, along with a watermelon smoothie, to the banks of the Mekong River where I joined some locals, sitting eating and watching the Mekong River, on its way from the Tibetan plateau to the Vietnam delta, flowing gently by. It was simply amazing and tranquil. The dish, by the way, was called Yam Khau.
Chiang Khan promenade along the Mekong
Chiang Khan promenade along the Mekong
Chiang Khan, sunset on the Mekong River
The next day was exploration day. First stop was Phu Thog, the Sea of Mist, this is a lookout point on the mountains, famed for it’s sun rise vistas. The sun rises over a sea of mist, it is really quite a sight. You are standing above and looking down on the mist. Unfortunately, I didn’t make it in time for sunrise, but nevertheless it was a super sight, I got the tail end of the mist. There is a road running up to a parking place and from there you take a Songthaew to the top of the mountain. Songthaews are a regular sight in Thailand. A Songthaew is a kind of shared taxi or bus, it is mostly a converted pickup truck. They run on fixed routes in towns and cities. You pay one price regardless of distance covered. They are also widely used in the rural areas. They run from the city or town through the villages. In this case it was included in the entrance fee.
Up to Phu Thog, the Sea of Mist
Phu Thog, the Sea of Mist
Phu Thog, the sea of mist, unfortunately I was a bit too late to get the full effect of the mist, it was lifting.
Then back to the bike and down to the town for a quick breakfast stop, before heading to the skywalk, just outside Chiang Khan at Tambon Pak Tom. This is an impressive walkway made from clear glass and built 30 meters above the Mekong River. It is 100 meters long by 2 meters wide. It runs above the Mekong taking in the point where the Huang River joins the Mekong. Once again there is a road leading up to the carpark where a Songthaew takes you the rest of the way up. The price to enter, including shuttle, insurance and special shoe covers is 60 Thai Bath or Euro 1.68 or US Dollar 1.75. There is a giant 19-meter-tall Buddha statue, with a small shrine where locals and tourists worship at. Quite an impressive layout and well worth the visit.
The Skywalk at Tambon Pak Tom
The skywalk, Note the really cool cool red coloured velvet covers over my shoes. Everyone got these to protect the glass from scratches.
Looking through the glass floor of the skywalk
19 meter tall Buddha statue
Looking down to the Mekong River from the Skywalk
Then on to a place called Kaeng Khut Khu. This is like a park on the river, with souvenir shops, restaurants and beaches. I ate at a nice little restaurant on the bank of the river. Headed back to Chiang Khan and was planning to take an evening boat cruise on the river. But I was just too late. So spent the evening in town and then on going back to the hotel, the owner and his family invited me to eat with them on their veranda. Spent a fantastic evening with them, learning about life in the village. Really nice people.
My next planned stop was . Unfortunately, this didn’t work out to well. It was a short run, but the park was closed when I arrived. The main gate only opens between 6 am and 12 noon. It was just after midday. The reason for this being that you have to park in the parking lot and hike to the camping area. The hike was a 4-hour hike. This was not gonna work for me, also rain was forecast for the following day, so found a nice little hut on a small lake and just chilled. Joined the local villagers for street food that evening.
Sunset from my little hut at Phu Kradueng National Park
The next day i left in high humidity interspersed with light rain. My destination was Nong Khai 190 km away. It was a nice enough road, country roads and some dual carriageway. Cutting through rural and mountainous areas. The scenery is varied, and you don’t get bored. Every so often I cut across an area on the small roads to rejoin the main road further up. This way I pass through the small rural villages and get a taste of life in the remote regions.
Nong Khai is a rural border town. The First Friendship Bridge connects the city of Vientiane, the capital of Laos, with Thailand. There are a number of temples scattered around and an impressive park of statues, the Sala Keo Kou. Everything is scattered around the outskirts of the town making getting to them difficult. The main attractions in Nong Khai is the Tha Sadet Market and the Saturday night walking street.
The Promenade of Nong Khai
Nong Khai
The Tha Sadet Market sells Indo Chinese and local products, it is mainly very much a local market. There are, however, a few stalls selling souvenirs and art and hand craft work. It is a bustling covered indoor market and well worth a stroll down it’s many alleyways. The Saturday night walking street is definitely worth a visit. A walk down the promenade to catch a nice sunset over the Mekong and then into the hustle and bustle of the walking street. This market only opens on a Saturday. It is full of food and arts and crafts sellers along with the buskers and street artists. I still am fascinated and love to be among the Thai and Asian tourists as they walk the market or chill on the promenade. I have had many a fantastic meeting and conversations with them. They are just as curious about me as I am about them.
The promenade of Nong Khai
The promenade of Nong Khai
Nong Khai
Tha Sadet Market, Nong Khai
Then on to Nakhon Phanom, 271 km and once again a mixture of dual carriageway and small roads.
The centre of the city is dominated by a 7 meter high brass Naga statue, facing the Mekong, this is the seven headed serpent that, according to myth, guards the city.
7 meter high brass Naga statue Nakhon Phanom
The guardians of Nakhon Phanom
It is lit up at night and on occasions it sprays water. At nighttime it is lit up and the main road leading away from it closes to traffic and becomes a bustling nighttime market, there are beautiful views here, across the river to the jungle clad mountains of Laos
Naga statue lit up at night
Mekong River with the jungle clad mountains of Laos across
Nakhon Phanom
Nakhon Phanom
I also went on a nighttime Mekong River cruise. This was really nice. Floating down the Mekong with the mountains of Laos on one side and the lights of Nakhon Phanom on the other.
Mekong Cruise
Mekong Cruise
Next stop was a massive 50 km run along the river to That Phanom, an important Buddhist site.
I rented a nice little wooden hut on the banks of the river. I really wanted to visit Wat Phra That Phanom Woramahawihan, a temple said to hold the breast bone of the Lord Buddha. It is said to have been built in 535 BC. Being destroyed in a flood and being rebuilt and added to. The last one taking place in May 1976 and completed on 21st March 1979. The Late King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit presided over the ceremony which involved enshrining the Buddha’s chest relics. The next day, the Supreme Patriarch of Thailand presided over the ceremony of raising the golden umbrella, 4 metres tall and 110 kilograms in weight, and attaching it to the top of the Phra That. Finally, on 23 March, King Bhumibol, Queen Sirikit, and other royal family members paid a visit to the site to install the Buddha’s chest relics into Phra That Phanom. Bricks from the old Phra That, in good condition and beautifully patterned, were used to decorate the new Phra That, while other debris was placed in the Brick Stupa of the original Phra That Phanom, located on the isle in the middle of the pond. It is an impressive temple or Pagoda and a must visit for me.
That Phanom
Wat Phra That Phanom
Wat Phra That Phanom
Wat Phra That Phanom
Wat Phra That Phanom
Wat Phra That Phanom
In the morning I was up before sunrise to watch the giving of alms. This is when the monks from the neighbouring monasteries walk barefooted down the road where locals and tourist line the route to give donations of food. The monk accepts the food and gives a blessing to the giver. As this was going on the sun rose up above the Mekong, making a perfect backdrop to this age-old ceremony that repeats itself every morning for decennia’s past and for the following decennials yet to come. I headed off but first stopped at the temple for a morning visit. That Phanom was really a fantastic experience.
Sunrise That Phanom
That Phanom giving alms to the monks… every day at dawn
That Phanom giving alms to the monks… every day at dawn
Then another really short run along the Mekong to the town of Mukdahan. I wrote in my notes that was a really boring dusty little town.
I was on my way to a town called Phitsanulok, 585km from That Phanom. I just slept here and left early the next morning on 9 hours run over 523km. The weather was rain so had the rain gear on. It was dual carriage for most of the journey. This turned into a really good two-way road up over the mountain and through the rainforest. On the mountain stretch the rain got really bad and just got worse the whole way into Phitsanulok. But the scenery was magnificent. Navigating to the hotel was a pain because my telephone was in a plastic bag in my jacket pocket and I was just using the Bluetooth set in my helmet, but got there in the end. Whilst checking in I left a puddle of water on the reception floor. After getting to my room and getting changed I was locking the bike up when I noticed another biker leaving another pool of water on the reception floor. This was a Swiss biker living in Thailand and riding a Thai registered Triumph Tiger XRX. We had a really good and interesting talk.
I was stopping two nights here as I wanted to explore the temples. Phitsanulok is over 600 years old, making it one of the oldest cities in Thailand. This is a really nice city to wander around in, pretty much off the tourist track. But well known and visited by Thai people from all over Thailand.
The Clock Tower of Phitsanulok
The main attraction are the temples, the most important being Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat also known as Wat Yai, and Wat Ratburana. Wat Yai is the most important and is the home of the most revered Buddha figure in Thailand, Phra Buddha Chinnarat. Wat Ratburana is known for it’s tall and ancient Chedi. Legend has it that it was built in the 15th century to house the ashes of the kings two brothers. I spent all day wandering around the temple complexes.
Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat also known as Wat Yai and Wat Ratburana
Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat also known as Wat Yai and Wat Ratburana
Wat Ratburana
Wat Ratburana
Wat Ratburana
Wat Ratburana
Buddha statues Wat Ratburana
Local dance Phitsanulok
In the evening i spent wandering along the railway station, night market. This is pretty much a local market frequented by locals lending it a unique charm.
The Railway station Phitsanulok
Railway Station, night market
Railway Station, night market
Railway Station, night market
Railway Station, night market
Chiang Mai was just 337 km away a 6-hour run but I decided to break the journey in a town called Phrae. The road runs once again through mountains and forest, and I wanted to go slow and enjoy it. So I made a two-day run out of it.
Phrae
Phrae
Phrae
Phrae
Phrae
Phrae
My hotel Phrae
Beautiful carving in my hotel Phrae
This was a fantastic trip. Some really beautiful nature and people. But I realized that I just cannot travel this way. I have a rental bike, not my own. This means that I have a rental contract and am paying by the day. It is expensive in a way, but the annoying part is that I can’t really stay longer in a place, if I like it, or meet some nice people there. I have a time frame and that does not agree with me. I need my own bike and back to total freedom. That is my next goal.
If you would like to see some more pictures please visit my Facebook page and click on the like named photo album.
Facebook North East Thailand, Isaan 14-2-25 to 28-2-25
Then fluff up your cushion in your favourite chair, make a nice wee cup of tea grab a nice big slice of cake and click and enjoy the sights of North East Thailand or Isaan.
My real time location, at the time of posting, is Chiang Rai. Thank you for taking the time to read the post and look at the photos, liking and commenting. Thank you for being a part of this journey with me.
บ๊ายบาย เจอกันใหม่คราวหน้า Thai for “Bye Bye until next time”