Big Buddha at the Golden Triangle Thailand
Bikes, Buses, Trains let’s get lost in South East Asia
Bangkok bus terminal is huge. I arrived early as I needed to find the platform from which the bus departed and to make sure that I was in the right place. Thailand has a fantastic network of buses. They range from executive VIP to normal. The normal class is really good, but I had upgraded and was taking one of the VIP buses. This one has large reclining seats with loads of legroom. The seating layout is one row of double seats on one side and a row of single seats on the other side. The ticket includes drinks, snacks and a meal. There is a toilet onboard. I was taking the night sleeper bus, scheduled to arrive in Chiang Mai early in the morning. First impression of the bus was wooow… neat. The buses are all equipped with aircon…. Thai for deepfreeze. Boarding the bus was an organized chaos. My backpack went into the cargo hold and I could just board with hand luggage. My seat was really big and was equipped with a tv monitor and two USB charging port. Then we were off. About 3 hours out of Bangkok the bus suddenly slowed down, pulled over to the side of the road and stopped…. Even the aircon went off and when that happens it is bad. It was pitch dark but I could see that we were in the middle of nowhere. Nobody said anything so I got up and went outside. Around the back of the bus the driver and the hostess had the engine compartment open and were staring in dismay at the engine. There was a large puddle of liquid underneath the bus and what looked like the remains of a drive belt. This bus was going nowhere fast and it was also really hot.
One broken bus.
The driver was looking at a YouTube video on how to fix a bus and the hostess was phoning the bus company for help. End result was that the bus was definitely broken and another bus would come and pick us up in about one and a half hours. So nothing to do but wait along the road beside our VIP bus and wait and wait. The new bus eventually arrived and we arrived in Chiang Mai after a quick stop for food, about 2 hours late.
Chaing Mai, a large town, is situated in the mountains and is a bit cooler than Bangkok. After checking into the hotel I started to look around for a bike. I had been in mail contact with a few companies and now it was time to call around to them in person. I finally managed to pick up a Honda CRF 250, this is the bike that I wanted. I wanted to test drive this bike over mountain roads and over a long distance. The reason being I am thinking of buying a CRF 300 and want to see how I feel.
Honda CRF 250
But first a quick look around Chiang Mai. I was staying in the center and everything was a short walk away. I visited some of the temples, visited the Sunday night market and had a look at the old town in general. I also met up with and had a good chat with a Dutch biker called Jasper Khrap. This guy has a website, constantly being updated with really good roads and routes to ride in North Thailand. https://khaosanroad-online.com
Musician on the night market Chaing Mai
Then it was time to pick up the bike and head off. I had two routes planned out. Both these routes began and ended in Chiang Mai. I had timed it so that I would be in Chiang Mai for Christmas. The first route was towards Chiang Rai on the scenic route.
Roadside stop for lunch.
Stopped off at the Mae Katchen hot springs. These are a natural source of hot thermal water. It is really funny to see people in the villages cooking in the springs, boiling eggs etc. Then a stop at the Khun Korn waterfalls. This is an impressive waterfall, 70 meters high and situated in a shady green bamboo forest. It involves a 3 km round trip hike from the parking lot. The hike is quiet steep in places and was no fun in the heat and wearing full bike gear. Once at the top the hike was worth it. At the top I met and chatted with an English couple Ted and Janice. We were later to meet again.
Mae Katchen hot springs.
Khun Korn waterfalls.
Then on to Chiang Rai and to look for a hotel. I had written down a few options but they were all full. Finally I pulled into this really small one and it was amazing. There was a huge tree in the garden and it was full of birds singing, dusk was falling. She had a room so I took it. I decided to stay an extra night but unfortunately she was booked up so I went back to my original first choice and they had a room. Then it was off to ride the Golden Triangle. This is a place were the three countries meet, Myanmar (Burma), Laos and Thailand. This happens on the Me Kong river.
The Golden Triangle
I also visited the Opium museum. This area has a rich history of Opium growing, smuggling and wars. The occupying countries both fought to control it, a major source of power and wealth or to destroy it. Then back down to Chiang Rai. Before heading to the Golden Triangle I stopped at Wat Rong Khun or the White Temple. This is one of Chiang Rai’s top attractions. It was created and designed by the national artist Chalermchai Kositpipat and was opened to the public in 1997.
Wat Rong Khun or the White Temple.
It is truly an amazing sight, no words can describe it. It is a Buddhist temple. In the grounds of the temple there is an art cave. This is a cave filled with artwork and lights. Soft spiritual music is played from loudspeakers leading to a fantastic viewing experience. To get an idea look at the like named photo album.
Art cave in the grounds of the White Temple.
That evening I went for a walk around town. I also had a look at the famous gold clock tower that forms a roundabout on a busy road junction. Every night at 7, 8 and 9 pm the tower is lit up by a light show and plays music, a must see here. Later on in the evening, after a visit to the night market, I met up with Ted and Janice from the waterfall. We had a good chat and a drink together.
Chaing Rai Golden clock tower
The next day it was onwards towards Mae Salong. The scenic route is about 175 km. First stop was Wat Rong Suea Ten or the Blue temple. This is another modern magnificent temple opened in 2016 and built by Salah Nok a disciple of Chalermchai Kositpipat.
The Blue Temple Chaing Rai
Then it was on to the union of hill tribes and the Karen long necks in particular. This is a mountainous area bordering Myanmar (Burma) and the Thai government made villages available to various tribal people fleeing oppression. Here they can carry on their culture. These villages are open to the public and thousands of people flock here yearly to experience these people’s culture. They call themselves the Padaung and originated in China, in 1000 AD they emigrated to the Salween river basin in Myanmar where they live from traditional agriculture. But after political problems they emigrated to the mountains in Thailand were they found a new home in the allocated villages. The women appear to have long necks because they wear gold rings made by the men. They believe the longer the neck the more beautiful the woman. The tradition holds sway to this day.
Karen long necks
After a view more stops to admire the views I made it to Mae Salong. The inhabitants are Chinese descendants from the Chinese national army who ere fighting and retreating from the communist armies. The area is famous for tea plantations and produce some really nice teas.
The road was winding through tea plantations.
The next stop was Fang, famous for its hot springs. The way there was truly amazing. High mountain roads with loads of viewpoints and temples meaning I stopped a lot. I visited the hot springs in the Doi Pa Hom Pok National park. This park is home to hot springs, originating from simmering granite, ranging in temperature from 40c to 90 c The largest spring shoots out a jet of steam as high as 40 to 50 meters.
The largest spring shoots out a jet of steam as high as 40 to 50 meters. Doi Pa Hom Pok National park.
Fang was a local little town, but in the morning it started to rain. I wanted to go up the mountain to another famous pass. But unfortunately the mountain was covered in mist and I couldn’t see too much. The weather cleared up and got warmer once I descended to Chiang Mai.
Road to Doi Angkhang…. rain and mist
After a good night’s sleep I went on another little run around the area. It was a route through the Samoeng Valley, forest and rice fields around the Doi Suthep. I made various stops along the way, Mae Sa Fall, an impressive ten tier waterfall, Mon Jam Pong Jam amazing forest views, Mae Sap Caves, but unfortunately I was running out of time so didn’t visit. Wat Phra Dat Doi Kham is an impressive temple with a 17 meter high stupa made of gold and a large beautiful carved statue of a sitting Buddha. This route also ran through the Queen Sirikit Botanical gardens. This whole route was 6 days.
Mae Sa fall, an impressive ten tier waterfall
Queen Sirikit Botanical gardens
Once in Chiang Mai I returned the Honda CRF 250, with around a thousand kms extra on it. It was a good wee bike but a bit underpowered on the steep mountain passes. The seat was really terrible… I really suffered. So if I buy one I will have to change a lot. I spent Christmas in Chiang Mai.
Christmas in Chiang Mai
I had good internet so it was time to upload and post. Also time to chat to the family. This was done through what’s app. First to my two sisters and then to Susie who is getting ready to come out to Phuket. I had also planned out another route and iconic motorcycle road trip involving one stretch of road with 1,846 hairpin bends and curves.
The Mae Hong Son Loop….. This is an iconic trip. For this trip I changed bikes. I took a Honda rebel 300. This has the same engine as the CRF 300.
The Honda rebel.
Once again the route starts in Chiang Mai and heads towards Pai. Once again stopping at some amazing places along the way. Mok Fa Waterfall with a height of 60 meters is surrounded by shrubbery and trees. A nice serene setting. Next was Pai canyon, an impressive place, best admired at sunset or sunrise. It has dips and rises of about 30 meters and offers some amazing hiking trails. It is not for the faint hearted though. Some of the path is really narrow and some parts you have to jump across a big dip. But worth a visit.
Mok Fa waterfall.
Pai Canyon.
Then a stop at the Pai memorial bridge. This bridge was built in the Second World War as a route to attack Burma, now called Myanmar.
Pai Memorial Bridge
Then into Pai and try to find my hotel. Pai is a beautiful little town. It has a really good vibe and is a backpackers paradise. But we couldn’t linger, we were on a schedule so the next day we were off.
Pai Night Market.
Our next destination was Mae Hong Son. The road leading here is 210 km of pure twists, turns and hairpin bends. A fantastic little road, full of some really nice viewpoints. We stopped at Doi Kiew Lom, Ban Jabo, Phang Ma Pha viewpoints and at Pha Suea Waterfall. This is one of Thailand’s most beautiful waterfalls with 6 levels. There is a hiking trail running up the falls to the different layers.
Coffee with a view.
Mae Hong Son is another nice little town on a lake and once again with a nice night market and an impressive temple. In Mae Hong Son you can also get a certificate stating that you have done 1846 loops. Yes I got one along with stickers and a couple of tee shirts. The town is really nice, on the banks of the lake with some really impressive temples. It also has real good night market
My hard earned certificate.
Mae Hong Son night market.
Then on to Mae Sarang. The twists and turns don’t stop in Mae Hong Son….. Its another twisty road stretching over a distance of 190 km. Stopped off at the Pha Bong viewpoint and the Mae Surin Waterfall. Also took a short detour to the Doi Mae U-Kho. This is a hillside flower growing area. But unfortunately I was out of season and missed the sight of the hills coloured by millions of flowering flowers, mostly sunflowers. Mae Sarang didn’t have a lot to offer in a way. Once again it was the road and another waterfall.
Mae Surin waterfall.
Then back to Chiang Mai 196 km away. Unfortunately I programmed google maps wrong and missed a really beautiful waterfall. But once again it was the road that counts. I think I managed to do the 4,088 curves all in. It was spectacular. Once in Chiang Mai I returned the bike and settled down to do some administration, the boring aspects of travelling. The next day I took a bus back to Bangkok. This time it didn’t break down. Here once again it will be administration time again and of course time to party. I am curious to see how the Thai people celebrate new year.
Unfortunately I lost the photos from my drift action camera for the last section of the route, the Mae Hong Son loop. I accidently reprogrammed it and had changed the shutter speed so all the photos were over exposed. Or the camera has decided to give up the ghost.
Thank you for taking the time to read the posts, I appreciate it. If you would like to see more photos from North Thailand then click on the link to the photo album on my Facebook travel blog page.
Facebook album North Thailand 14 December to 30 December 2023
Hasta la vista amigos.